Fish the Moment Blog
Full Process to Find and Catch Groups of Bass in Offshore Timber and Trees
Have you ever wondered how targeting specific trees with advanced sonar could help you land massive bass year-round?
In this video, I share an effective method I use to catch big bass year-round by targeting specific trees with advanced electronics and carefully selected baits. I set my DownScan to 80 feet and my SideScan to 100 feet, using 2D sonar to spot fish in the trees. My go-to bait is a six-inch Sakamoto shad, rigged to maximize its rocking action. I’ve landed several large bass with this setup, including a three-pound largemouth, and I use a specific rod setup to make casting more effective. While the Sakamoto shad is pricey and can be fragile, I’m planning to experiment with other baits in the future.
Every week, I’ll share the most recent Fish the Moment video. Hope you enjoy!
Check out my Sonar Settings Guides using the link below!
https://fishthemoment.com/sonar-guides
Complete Guide To Video Game Fishing (2D Sonar): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Px5NMcNREs&t=4s
Equipment Mentioned:
- Deps Sakamata Shad Soft Jerkbait 6": https://bit.ly/4giN1ov
- Range Roller Round Head XL 8g: https://bit.ly/3C061IR
- Denali Myriad MS762XF 7'6" Med X-Fast Spinning: https://bit.ly/4e1ADXq
- Sunline FC Fluorocarbon Leader Clear 12lb: https://bit.ly/3Mz7SnO
- Sunline Siglon PEx4 Braided Line 20lb: https://bit.ly/38vk2zl
- Abu Garcia Max Pro Spinning Reel MAXPRO30: https://bit.ly/3xXkRLV
Fish Finders Used in Video
- Console: Lowrance HDS Pro 12 3-In-1 - https://bit.ly/3B4qRGq
- Bow: Lowrance HDS Pro 16 - https://bit.ly/47suqlI
- FFS: Lowrance ActiveTarget 2 - https://bit.ly/3XJppSJ
Finding The Needle In a Haystack With 2D Sonar
Every Thursday, we’ll share audio from past Fish the Moment videos, packed with tips that are perfect for this season. Hope you enjoy the throwback!
Sonar Settings Guides:
https://fishthemoment.com/sonar-guides
Equipment Mentioned:
8" Fluke Setup:
- 8" Deps Sakamata Shad Heavy Weight Soft Jerkbait: https://bit.ly/4074EjB
- Core Tackle The Ultimate Swimbait Hook 7/0 1/4oz: https://bit.ly/3PsdGV2
- Denali KOVERT Lite Series Casting 7'6" Heavy/Mod Fast: https://bit.ly/38xMocq
- Abu Garcia Max X Casting Reel: https://bit.ly/3knogMb
- Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon 20lb: https://bit.ly/3LrGuYV
Flutter Spoon Setup:
- Nichols Ben Parker Magnum Flutter Spoon 8": https://bit.ly/3q54c7O
- Denali KOVERT Lite Series Casting 7'6" Heavy Fast: https://bit.ly/38xMocq
- Abu Garcia Max X Casting Reel: https://bit.ly/3knogMb
- Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon 20lb: https://bit.ly/3LrGuYV
FTM Tackle Warehouse link:
This Process Never Fails To Find Bass On a Fish Finder
In this video I share my approach to finding bass using a fish finder on Beaver Lake, Arkansas. In the fall, I focus on graphing different depths, usually between 10 and 40 feet, to locate fish. Key areas I target include islands, flats, and rock piles in the 10-15 foot range. I pay close attention to baitfish activity and brush piles. Once I’ve marked some promising spots, I start fishing and often catch spotted bass using a jig. I can’t emphasize enough the importance of having the right sonar settings, and I even have a guide on my website to help you optimize your fish finder - linked here. I’m confident this pattern is effective.
Equipment Mentioned:
Football Jig Setup:
- Fish the Moment Offshore Jig: https://bit.ly/3oFUuEs
- Strike King Menace Grub 4" Green Pumpkin: https://bit.ly/3LLu6E3
- Denali Lithium 7'4" Med Hvy Fast: https://bit.ly/3vq1vNP
- Abu Garcia Max X Casting Reel: https://bit.ly/3knogMb
- Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon 16lb: https://bit.ly/3LrGuYV
Fish Finders Used in Video
- Console: Lowrance HDS Pro 12 3-In-1 - https://bit.ly/3B4qRGq
- Bow: Lowrance HDS Pro 16 - https://bit.ly/47suqlI
- FFS: Lowrance ActiveTarget 2 - https://bit.ly/3XJppSJ
My New Go-To Offshore Bait In 2024
In this video, "My New Go-To Offshore Bait in 2024," I share how I've successfully used a deep diving crank bait to catch bass that are tricky to see on forward-facing sonar. I emphasize the value of traditional sonar, like 2D down scan and side scan, to find these less pressured fish. My strategy involves graphing around the lake to pinpoint areas with less fishing activity, especially focusing on ditches leading into flats.
As I explore, I notice the fish are spread out in unusual patterns, so I make some casts and, to my surprise, I catch a small spotted bass. Despite the challenges of seeing fish on forward-facing sonar, the crank bait proves effective. Throughout the day, I continue catching fish, even trying different areas and adjusting my techniques.
I also discuss the difficulties of locating fish offshore and stress the importance of having the right sonar settings. For those looking to optimize their fishing experience, I recommend checking out the sonar settings guides available here.
Definitely try out the crank bait technique!
Equipment Used In This Video:
6XD Crankbait Setup
- Strike King 6XD Crankbait Sexy Shad: https://bit.ly/3OxBv9Z
- Denali Kovert 7'6" Med Hvy Moderate: https://bit.ly/3R5DMwN
- Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon 12lb: https://bit.ly/3LrGuYV
- Lew's Speed Spool LFS 5.6:1 Gear Ratio: https://bit.ly/3QEw8I0
Super Deep Divers:
- O.S.P Blitz Magnum EX-DR: https://bit.ly/4erqILy
- Lithium Pro 7' 10" Xtra Hvy Mag Crankbait: https://bit.ly/3VINJTy
- Sunline Super FC Sniper Fluorocarbon 14lb: https://bit.ly/3LrGuYV
- Lew's Speed Spool LFS 5.6:1 Gear Ratio: https://bit.ly/3QEw8I0
Fish Finders Used in Video
- Console: Lowrance HDS Pro 12 3-In-1 - https://bit.ly/3B4qRGq
- Bow: Lowrance HDS Pro 16 - https://bit.ly/47suqlI
- FFS: Lowrance ActiveTarget 2 - https://bit.ly/3XJppSJ
Creek Channel Rule Eliminate 80% Of Your Lake in 5 Minutes
In this video, I explain the "creek channel rule" for quickly locating bass on new or unfamiliar lakes. While on Beaver Lake in Arkansas, I focus on areas where the main river channel intersects with a secondary creek channel, particularly targeting short creek channels to save time. I rely on traditional sonar and contour maps to find productive spots, pointing out that bass can be in depths ranging from 1 foot to 40 feet. Overcast conditions and the presence of baitfish are strong indicators of heightened fish activity. I stress the importance of being patient and using forward-facing sonar to track fast-moving schools of fish. During this session, I caught several fish using a prototype bait, showcasing how effective this technique is.
Hover Rig Set Up
- Core Tackle Hover Rig 3/0 1/8oz: https://bit.ly/46kaOzi
- Hog Farmer Baits Stroll Shad 4": https://bit.ly/4gtBfI4
- Denali KOVERT Lite Series Spinning Rod 7'2" Med Hvy: https://bit.ly/3LqjLw8
- Sunline Siglon PEx4 Braided Line 10lb: https://bit.ly/38vk2zl
- Sunline FC Fluorocarbon Leader Clear 8lb: https://bit.ly/3Mz7SnO
- Abu Garcia Max Pro Spinning Reel Size 30: https://bit.ly/3xXkRLV
Fish Finders Used in Video
- Console: Lowrance HDS Pro 12 3-In-1 - https://bit.ly/3B4qRGq
- Bow: Lowrance HDS Pro 16 - https://bit.ly/47suqlI
- FFS: Lowrance ActiveTarget 2 - https://bit.ly/3XJppSJ
How Deep to Fish
By far the most common mistake I see offshore anglers make is fishing in the wrong water depth, whether that's too shallow or too deep. In this blog, I am going to explain how to determine the correct depth of water you should be fishing in your lake.
The first and most accurate way to determine how deep you should be fishing offshore is by looking at how deep the bait fish are setting up on your fishery. Bait fish is kind of a catch all term for the food that the bass are feeding on.
For example, on a lot of highland and lowland reservoirs, the primary forage is going to be either gizzard shad, thread-fin shad or blueback herring, however you might be dealing with more panfish like perch or bluegill and that's the bait fish that the bass are feeding on. There are other types of bait fish out there as well. It's going to vary lake by lake, but in general, you should be able to find a type of bait fish that you can see on your fish finder.
In this image, you'll see a school of bait fish on the left and a school of bass on the right. Even though the bait fish are suspended over deeper water, they're in the exact same depth of water as the bass during that 10 to 15 foot zone.
In general, the bait fish are going to set up in the same depth as the bass. The other way to think about it is that the bass are going to be in the same depth as the bait fish because the bass have to be where the bait fish are since they need to eat to survive. Therefore, if those bait fish were setting up, let's say in 30 feet of water, those baits have to be down there because that's where their food source is and they're going to be in the exact same depth of water as the bait.
In the image bellow, the baitfish are on the right side of the screen and the bass are on the left side of the screen. They're in the exact same level in the water column. The bait fish are still in the exact same depth of water as those baits. What those baits are doing is waiting behind those rocks for those bait fish to swim over the rocks so they can ambush them. They're set up in ambush mode. You can see those bass positioning themselves behind an object waiting for bait fish to come over to the top of those rocks so they can eat them.
For those anglers who don't have a lot of shad in their fishery and have some fish like perch or bluegill, you can identify the depth of bait fish by where they bed in the form of bluegill beds. Here's a side imaging image of some bluegill beds, they're set up in 10 to 15 feet of water. This was taken in the middle of the summer time when those bluegill were actually in those beds laying their eggs.
During the summer, bream and perch will lay their eggs in every full moon and new moon throughout the entire summer. If you find those bluegill beds in 10 to 15 feet of water, you can be confident that those baths are also going to be set up in that 10 to 15 foot zone because they need to be in that zone to eat the baitfish.
There is one big exception to the rules I just laid out, and that's when you can't see the forage on your fish finder, either down imaging your side imaging. This happens when bass are feeding on crawfish, gobies, or sculpin because these types of bait fish will sit at the bottom of the rocks and are invisible on the fish finder. One thing we do know about these types of forage is that they like to set up around rocky areas in the bottom. This means you can graph around with your sight imaging, down imaging and 2D sonar to identify rock piles and rocky spots. Then you have to use a general rule of thumb to determine how deep is too deep to be fishing.
I've developed a basic rule of thumb using water clarity to determine how deep you should be fishing. If you can't see the bait fish on your fish finder then the rule of thumb is all based on how far you can see in the water. For example, in dirty water areas that have zero to one foot visibility, I find that the bass will set up at a maximum depth of about eight feet, so you don't want to fish any deeper than eight feet. That's the deepest you should look.
Next we have stained water with 2 to 3 feet of wire visibility. The way I get these wire visibility ranges is by tying on a white crank bait at the end of my fishing rod reel to the tip of the stick. When that bait disappears, I will pinch the rod and see if it disappeared. You don't need to be super specific here. This is a general rule of thumb. You are looking at less than 15 feet of water which is the maximum depth you want to fish.
Then you have clear water 45 foot visibility. This is where you do not want to fish. Anything deeper than 25 feet of water is not a good area. I have caught fish deeper than these maximum depths in all of these water visibilities, but that's definitely an exception to the rule.
For newer anglers, this is a great place to start, because you don't have a good basis to start from. I would follow these guidelines as closely as you can, because you will waste a lot of time if you try to fish deeper than these recommended levels in different water visibility. I would say 80-90% of the time these guidelines will work.
For newer anglers, this is a great place to start. I would follow these guidelines as closely as you can, because you will waste a lot of time if you try to fish deeper than these recommended levels in these different water visibility.
Now ultra clear water gets a little bit tricky. When you have 6 feet or more of visibility, the bass can go very deep. I have caught fish on Table Rock Lake as deep as 80 feet of water.
In the summer, this is a little bit easier, because you can use what's called the thermocline. The thermocline is something that you can use to determine the depth of the fish in any water visibility. It is this band of water that's formed between the top of the lake and the surface of the lake at the bottom of the lake.
The reason this band forms is because water is closer towards the surface or where the sky has more oxygen and is warmer. This is because the sun is hitting the surface of the water and the air is mixing with the water as the sky and the water meet. However, as you get deeper into the lake, you get further away from the oxygen in the air and further away from the sunshine. This causes the water to get colder and to have less oxygen, so you're going to have warm water sitting closer towards the surface and it's going to stay oxygenated. The water that's cold will sink down to the bottom resulting in less oxygen. The bass and bait fish need oxygen to survive, so they're going to be setting up above that thermocline wind just so they can have enough oxygen to be able to function and to continue living.
If you get below that thermocline, there's a lot less oxygen for the bass and they are not going to spend a lot of time down there just because it's not a great condition for them. However, they want to be near that thermocline because as you get further down to the water it gets cooler.
When it's really hot outside in the summer, they want to be in that cooler water, but they don't go below the thermocline because again, there's not enough oxygen. What this means is that the bass can be sitting up right on that thermocline or just above it for the majority of the summer which allows you to determine exactly where those fish are gonna be setting up offshore. Conveniently, you can identify a thermocline using the down imaging or to the view on your fish finder. All you have to do is idle into the middle of the lake and find deep water. Once you're out in the deepest part of your lake, crank up the sensitivity. You will notice a band of water in the middle that will form. This band is the thermocline.
Hopefully you found this blog post helpful! Please let us know if this article was helpful and if you would like more content like this at info@fishthemoment.com
Top December Baits
Northern Lakes by Matt Stefan
If you live up north and you're lucky enough to have some open water in December, you can still catch a lot of good fish but you are probably going to have to fish deeper and slower. The bait that I am choosing for December is the Berkeley Snap Jig. This bait is one of my absolute favorites for cold water fishing. Some of you love it so much that you like to use it through the ice. The bait glides all over the place so you can get a lot of movement whether you through the ice or not. I also like to fish this in open water to make a long cast, by snapping the rod and letting the bait glide all over the place. It does an excellent job of mimicking those bait fish that are starting to die off because your water temperatures are reaching extremely cold temperatures.
Because crayfish are hibernating at this time, the only thing fish have to eat are baits, so most of the fish is going to be preying on that easy meal. There are very few baits that do as good of a job as this snap jig.
One of my favorites is the Keitech Shad Impact 4 in. When this hits the bottom, give it a little bit of time to sit in the cold water at the bottom, because that's what a dying baitfish looks like. Soon a lot of bass will start to swim over and suck it up right off the bottom because they think that something just died and fell to the bottom.
Lowland Reservoir by Jimi Easterling
My favorite lure in the month of December is the Flat Sided Crank-bait. It has a tight wobble that the bass cannot resist as temperatures drop during the month of December.
I like to find stained water and I am going to go target rock, wood stumps and ditches. This is a lure that can cover all the water. I will be targeting anywhere between 4-8 feet in depth during this month.
Shallow Water by randy Blaukat
I love fishing in December and this is the time of year for jerk baits. It is no surprise that my favorite bait is the 110 Jerk Bait. This is the bait that I use the most throughout the month of December. Because of the low temperatures, the bass will begin to form packs of 2-5 and go the main lake and secondary points. For these packs of bass, there is no better jerk bait than this one.
The first thing I am going to do, is determine the angle of the point that I want to fish. I am also going to be looking for sign of baitfish anywhere between 10-20 feet of water. If I see bait fish on these points, then I will start keying in those specific points because if baitfish are there, then there will also be bass.
Florida and tVA Lakes By Miles Burghoff
December is all about cold fronts. The temperatures start to go down to the lowest they will be all season long. In the south, the shed will be affected by these weather changes. When the temperatures get to the low 40s, the shad are going to start dying or stunned. You want to use baits that imitate those stunned or dying bait fish. The best bait created for imitating this is the Suspending Jerk-bait.
I like to use high speed casting gear because a lot times you will gets surprised by bait that is coming right at your so you want to be able to pick up that slack quickly. This is why I use an 8:1 gear ratio. I like to use this at 45 degree banks and bluff walls since this is where the bass fish are going to be.
These were are top 5 December baits. Hopefully you enjoyed this blog. Please let us know if this article was helpful and if you would like more content like this at info@fishthemoment.com.
Blaukat Blog | Secrets of Fall Glidebait Fishing
As many anglers know, Fall can be one of the most challenging times of the year to fish, but also one with the most options available to anglers.
Advancements in lure technology have not only came up with modifications of existing categories but created new ones through innovation.
One of those innovations over the past 10 years is the emergence of Glide baits.
These oversized, hard-bodied fish imitators originally were created to mimic trout in California lakes, but have transformed into replicating large bass prey across the country.
Glide baits can resemble trout/ gizzard shad/ perch and other types of fish that bass feed on.
Fall is a prime time to fish Glide baits. For the most part, anglers have learned that these lures produce best in the late pre-spawn, and mid to late fall.
Fishing Glide baits requires a shift in perspective and expectations. The most important thing to remember is that the number of strikes you can expect go WAY down, especially as the size of the bait increases.
For the most part, the most productive and popular sizes are 6-9 inches. Most of them will weigh between 2 and 6 ounces.
Given then, the first element of Glide bait fishing revolves around the tackle setup. The weight of these baits requires a minimum of a flipping stick for the smaller baits, and a Glide bait specific heavier rod for the 4+ ounce models.
A large capacity baitcasting reel with 20-25-pound test fluorocarbon is also recommended.
Casting distance is critical. It is especially important to cast Glide baits as far as you can, as most of the time they are fished in cleaner water scenarios. As well, this give the bass more time to find and tract the bait.
Once the bait hits the water, the retrieve is key. Most Glide baits have a built-in, wide side to side action when reeled straight in.
Most experts with this technique prefer to work the bait almost like a jerkbait…twitching the bait to make it dart harder side to side.
Like with jerkbaits, the cadence/ rhythm and speed of retrieve varies with water temperatures, clarity, wind, and time of day. Experimentation is the only way to determine this.
Glidebait areas are dependent of the type of cover and clarity available on the lake you are fishing. Since you are targeting big bass, you must fish big bass areas.
Some of the better Glide bait locations are bluff banks, steep channel banks, points, and over deeper grass beds.
When approaching these areas, wind is your friend. Getting a Glide bait bite under calm conditions in the fall is exceedingly difficult.
As well, time of day is a big consideration. Glide baits run against the normal approach of fishing shade or capitalizing on the early and late bite.
Most Glide bait experts will tell you the best bite window is the middle of the day, as this gives the bass the best visibility to see the bait from a distance.
Once you have the proper tackle, bait and are in a good area, the next step is to adjust your mentality.
Realize you are after very few strikes and be ready for one when it comes. Big bass will track and follow a Glide bait many more times than they will bite it.
This can be a frustrating thing for any angler. One of the tips we can give you, is if you see a bass following your bait, speed it up fast and hard. This will give the bass only two options…attack it or leave it alone. Given the size of the bait, you never want to give a bass too much time to study it close.
And finally, if you really want to learn this technique, leave all your other tackle at home. Grab a couple Glide bait rods, a few Glide baits, and hit the lake. This will force you to throw it all day long, which is the only way you can learn and gain confidence in this lure category.
Best of luck out there!
Blaukat Blog/ Understanding the Fall Transition
One of the realities I have discovered in fishing across the country for the past 35 years, is in general, fall can be some of the toughest months of the year to catch fish, especially bigger bass.
Much of this is due to the fact the seasonal transitions and environmental factors are more pronounced and drawn out than in other times of the year.
The diversities in types of water make it impossible for any fishing theories or opinions to cover each lake in the country. But in general, one of the biggest reasons fall is tough is due to the fact the bass are more scattered out throughout the lake than any other season.
As thermoclines dissipate, the bass are free to move deeper or shallower, and there are always a shallow, mid-depth and deeper bite to be had during the fall transition.
I consider the heart of the fall transition to be when the water falls approximately 10-15 degrees from its warmest level during the heat of the summer.
It is during this window, when the most varied number of patterns will be existing on any body of water.
For example, on a typical man-made impoundment, there will be a shallow pattern going on in the upper river and creek arms. Bass can be caught in just a few feet of water.
At same time, anglers would be able to go to the lower end of the lake and catch bass in 20-40 feet, depending on the water clarity.
And of course, there will be patterns available to pursue in the mid-depth areas as well.
So, the question is, what is the best way to approach the fall transition?
The easy answer would be to fish your strengths. But when trying to develop to your fullest potential as an angler, this mentality can be a limiting factor.
The best answer is you need to fish the best patterns and areas for the given conditions you face the day you are on the water.
For example, if the day you are on the lake in the fall transition is cloudy, windy and maybe some light rain, take advantage of this and head to the cleanest water in the lake and fish moving baits and topwaters. The bass in this area that would normally be tough to catch immediately become much easier.
On the flip side, if the day your area out is clear and calm, you may be presented with multiple options.
In those conditions, you might be able to pick up a couple quick topwater fish early on some shady banks, then have the option of dragging a football head jig on points, or heading up the river into the stained water and fishing a spinnerbait or squarebill crankbait.
Each lake will have opportunities uniquely their own, so anglers will have to modify their approaches to their specific lake.
Blaukat FTM blog/Speedy Fall Spinnerbaits
Understanding seasonal transitions are one of the key elements to becoming a better bass angler.
Depending on which part of the country you live in, the seasonal patterns and movements of the bass can be more pronounced than others.
One of the most basic truths of the fall transition that occurs across the country is that bass tend to move shallower and chase more.
Given this, moving baits like crankbaits and spinnerbaits are solid fall choices in the September-November time period.
In this blog column, I want to discuss one of my favorite fall baits and techniques…speedy spinnerbaits.
“Burning” a spinnerbait was developed in the Missouri Ozarks over 50 years ago as a method to catch big clear water fall bass.
Back then, veteran anglers like Basil Bacon developed methods of fishing big, Colorado bladed spinnerbaits in sight…just under the surface.
Keeping the bait high in the water column produces the same strike effect as a topwater plug many times.
Anglers like Basil helped develop the technique that has become a mainstay in clear water fall fishing.
Today’s spinnerbait ripping technique has changed some since the early days, along with bait improvements and a better understanding of fish positioning and movements.
I have fished speedy spinnerbaits for over 40 years myself, and during this timeframe, I have learned a lot of tricks that will help generate more strikes with this method.
Here are some key things I have learned and experienced…
1. Conditions must be right. The ideal situation is water visibility of over 2 feet, with a low-light condition created from clouds or early and late in the day. Water temperatures can range from 55-75 degrees, but a fall in temperatures need to be occurring. This usually begins happening in mid to late September in many parts of the country.
2. The spinnerbait itself is key. Although bass will bite larger profiles at times, the best ripping spinnerbait is a small profile, ½ oz. size. This combination will allow the bait to be fished fast and high in the water column without rolling to one side. As well, skirt colors should be a clear/shad type color. My favorite blade for this application is a single, no. 3 or 4 willowleaf. This setup closely resembles a shad and allows me to efficiently cover water with the bait.
3. Rod/ reels and line are also important. Speedy spinnerbaits are about covering massive amounts of water. Long casts are crucial. I prefer a 7-foot, medium heavy action rod like the Megabass Orochi Perfect Pitch. I will pair this with 15-pound test Seaguar Invixz line, and a 7:1 Lews baitcasting reel. I have found a setup along these lines help me make long casts, cover lots of water, manipulate the bait and get a good hookset from long distances.
4. How you work the bait is also important. Always make the longest cast you can. Once the bait hits the water, begin your fast retrieve immediately. Most of the time, strikes occur within the first 5 or 10 feet of a retrieve, so you need to get the bait moving fast very quickly. As well, do not just “reel” the spinnerbait in. Keep your rod tip high, and shake it, stop and start it quickly, and give it an erratic retrieve. This will generate more strikes.
5. Areas are important. I always key on shade lines when possible. Look for rocky points, steeper banks or transition areas. Depending on the angle of the bank, your boat may need to be parallel to the bank, or you might need to cast straight into it. You want the bait in the key depth, which is usually 5-10 feet for as much of the cast as you can get it.
6. And finally, add a trailer hook. I prefer adding a no. 4 treble hook as a trailer, since you are not fishing the bait around cover. As well, the treble hook is largely hidden by the skirt. I’m convinced you get fewer bites with a long single trailer hook hanging behind the spinnerbait.
So, keep an eye on the water temperature in your area lake, and when it starts dropping, make the transition to the speedy spinnerbait method. I am confident it will be a big producer and make for some of the most exciting strikes of the year.
Best of luck out there!
FTM Blaukat Blog/Small Late Summer Crankbaits
Now that we are entering the middle of August, many veteran anglers consider the next month or so to be some of the most challenging times of the year to catch bass.
Fish that were living in deeper schools in June and early July have began to scatter out, suspend, and move to different locations around the lake.
In many situations in both man-made lakes and river systems, this involves a greater population of bass moving to shallow cover, despite the warm water temperatures.
While the exact reason this occurs is a theory to a large degree, the fact remains that many times, oxygen levels area better, baitfish are more plentiful, and the right mix of cover exists for bass to set up on shallow targets.
In this situation, one of the most effective tools for catching bass is a small crankbait.
Crankbaits like the Megabass Z-crank, the Megabass S-crank 1.2 are two examples of this lure category. While both crankbaits are small, the difference in these and similar crankbaits like the 200 series Bandits or the Strike King 1.5 squarebills, is the lip angle.
Cranks like the Z-crank or the Bandit have small diving lips that get the bait down quick, into the 3-5-foot range.
During August and September, this lure category is perfect for cranking rocky banks, riprap and even wood cover.
On the other hand, cranks like the S-Crank or the Strike King squarebills have the squarebill lip design.
This lip design gives the bait more of a horizontal trajectory, and the ability to deflect off shallow targets better than the diving lip on the other baits.
Both bill categories play a big role in late summer bass fishing, and many times, bass will prefer one lip or bait profile over the other.
Given this, when committing to a shallow water summer approach, anglers would do well to have each of these baits tied on, with a couple different color options.
Here are a few key points to remember…
1. Look for water visibility of less than 18 inches. Ideally, when fishing around shallow targets in warm water with small crankbaits, water visibility of 8 to 12 inches is ideal.
2. Color is another key factor. Shad and perch patterns are the two most effective color choices on small crankbaits. Try using a brighter chartreuse/ yellow sided bait early in the morning, or on cloudy windy days. Also, in very dirty water (less than 8 inches visibility) this color scheme will be more productive. Shad patterns with a metallic/ flat or clear finish, produce well up in the brighter daytime hours, or in cleaner water. Remember, much of the keys to hitting on the right colors is through experimentation.
3. Retrieve speed is also a critical element in small crankbaits. When fishing them around thicker cover like laydowns, shake the rod tip while reeling the bait. This will keep the bait from getting hung up. Once free, speed the bait up quickly and begin a fast stop and go retrieve. When fishing rocky banks, be sure to keep your speed up and use an erratic retrieve.
4. Line size is dependent on the cover you are fishing and the depth you need to attain. Match your line size accordingly to this. Also, when fishing on rocky or riprap banks, go lighter on line size. This will allow for longer casts and allow you to cover a wider range of depths. Most of the time, I’m using 6-12lb. Seaguar Invizx line for all my small cranks.
5. And finally, the rod and reel setup is crucial. For me, the best setup with small crankbaits is a medium action rod around 7 feet long. I use the Megabass Orochi Whipsnake rod. Not only will a spinning rod allow you to make longer casts, it increases your distance and accuracy on windy days. Once you get comfortable with using the spinning outfit, it is rare to see anyone go back to a baitcaster.
There is no better time to fish small crankbaits than now until the end of September. Just grab a small selection of these baits and head to the most stained water your favorite lake has. I’m confident it will be one of the best ways you can put fish in the boat during one of the toughest times of the year!
The Braid to Fluoro Dilemma- Blaukat Blog
The WON Bass U.S. Open is my favorite tournament of the year.
Two years ago, I finished 10th in that event, and would have won the tournament had it not been for a knot failure on a braid to flouro setup.
In the Open, it is a “shared weight” event. This means any fish caught by the pro or co-angler goes towards the pro’s weight.
The first day of the tournament, my co-angler lost two big bass that broke his braid to flouro knot. Had he landed either one of those bass, I would have won the event. This event solidified my current stance on braid to flouro.
Unless you have been hiding away on a deserted island over the past 5 years, you know most bass anglers have gravitated to using a braided main line with a flouro leader on most spinning rod applications.
In fact, finding anglers who use strictly flouro anymore is rare.
As someone who has used a spinning outfit for over 50 years, and still uses it in nearly 50% of my fishing applications, I can attest to the fact I’m one of the few that still use nothing but flouro for my spinning reel techniques.
This decision came as the result of a lot of experiments with both braid to flouro and straight flouro. After extensive testing and use of both, it has been my opinion that straight flouro is the better choice.
This decision has nothing to do with being “old school”. It was made by my measure of efficiency and effectiveness on the water.
Personally, I feel the huge migration towards the braid/flouro trend has come about with a herd mentality to a large degree. Many weekend anglers and pros have seen top pros adopting the method, and assume they show as well.
Here are why most anglers say they use braid to flouro…
1. Less line problems.
2. Longer casts.
3. Less stretch.
Here is what I have found regarding braid to fluoro…
1. Potential knot failures increase.
2. The tendency to not retie as much due to added time retying two knots.
3. The tendency not to retie leaders and they become shorter. Increases braid visibility to wary fish.
4. Lack of stretch leads to more break-offs.
5. Too much time consumed retying two knots in high winds in a boat.
As well, here are why most anglers do not use straight fluoro…
1. Line fluffs and issues surrounding it.
This is the main issue I hear from braid to fluoro advocates. To me, this is not a valid argument because here is what I see as the advantages of using straight fluoro…
1. One knot to tie.
2. Easy to retie which encourages retying more often.
3. A clear line throughout the water column which decreases visibility to the fish.
4. Better bait manipulation and consistency.
5. One knot gives the angler a better feel for the line’s limitations.
6. More strikes.
This last item, no. 6 is important. Anglers need to realize that a braid to fluoro setup will NOT get you anymore bites.
If anything, a line of bright green line trailing down into the water, it will cost you strikes.
To me, getting the strike is paramount, and efficiency is also a huge key.
After experimentation, I have determined it is well worth the time I spend messing with a couple of reel fluffs each day with straight fluoro, versus having to retie two knots over and over after break-offs, worrying if knot integrity was compromised pulling too hard, or wondering if the bass can see that bright braided line.
The point is do not let peer pressure influence your decision on this. I am here to tell you that it is completely ok to not get on the braid/fluoro bandwagon.
Ultimately, it is all about confidence and efficiency. We all need to use what works for us.
For me, that is straight Seaguar Invizx fluoro.
Best of luck!
Flipping Weights- Blaukat Blog
The technique of flipping has been around for nearly 50 years.
Developed in the early 1970s by Dee Thomas in California, he took it to Bull Shoals Arkansas in 1975 and won a Bassmaster event by flipping sawdust mats.
Ever since then the technique has undergone a radical transition in terms of rods/ reels/line/baits/hooks/and weights.
In this Fish The Moment blog, I’d like to address the topic of weights used in the flipping method.
I will start by saying flipping is one of my favorites, if not my all-time favorite ways to catch bass. Most of my wins or high finishes over the past 40 years have come with this technique.
I have had the opportunity to flip coast to coast across this country, in countless lakes and rivers. Over the years, I have learned a lot about the aspects of the technique that best generates strikes.
The size of weight you are using rates high on that list of strike generators.
Regardless if you are flipping a jig or a Texas rig, there are several considerations that all anglers should understand.
Here is an overview of some things I have learned about this…
As a rule, the dirtier, shallower, and colder the water is, the lighter the weight you should use. On the opposite, the warmer, clearer and deeper the water, the heavier you should go to. This rule holds true much of the time to some extent
However, this is an over-generalization and there are many more variables involved. For example, what is heavy and what is light?
I have found, for the most part, many anglers have a narrow view of weight selections. Lots of anglers I have been around fish only a 3/8th, a ½, and a 1 oz. size. Many consider 3/8th as “light”.
This desire for simplicity keeps many anglers from getting the full potential from flipping.
I use 1/16th- 1/8th- 3/16th- 1/4- 5/16- 3/8th- 1/2- 3/4- 1 oz and 1 ¼ oz. sizes, depending on the conditions.
For example, if I am fishing a stick bait worm like the Zoom Zlinky around shallow dock pilings in 6 inches of visibility, in less than 3 feet of water… I will use 1/16th oz. sinker. The slow fall in the shallow water makes for a much more natural presentation. I used this exact setup to finish well in a tournament on Logan Martin lake a few years ago.
On the flip side, in a tournament I fished on Sam Rayburn lake two years ago, the lake was high, and the water was flooded into the mesquite trees. These trees are extremely thick and gnarly and had about 9 feet of water in them.
I experimented with different weights, and finally hit on the one they wanted…a ¾ oz. sinker on a Zoom Z-Hog. The Z hog is a Beaver-type bait and falls like a rocket on a ¾ oz. sinker.
In this case, the fast fall not only generated the strikes, but allowed me to fish the thick, deep cover extremely efficiently, and I was able to finish high in the tournament with this method.
These are two examples of extremes, and for the most part, all the other weights fall into the situation between these two.
Most flipping situations involve flooded trees and bushes/ laydown wood/stumps/docks/emergent and submerged vegetation and any other cover that offers an ambush point.
The two main considerations are efficiency and strike generation.
The rate of fall will vary with line size, line tension, and the type of cover you are fishing. Regardless, always remember the golden rule we mentioned above…Go lighter the dirtier, shallower and colder the water is, and heavier the clearer, thicker the cover, and warmer the water is.
Once you consider the golden rule, you can then modify it to your situation. For example, say you are flipping laydown trees on a shallow flat. The water visibility is 15 inches and the water is 4 feet deep.
Bait size and profile will affect fall rates, but here would be my approach to this situation, with this specific type of cover…
1. If water temperatures were under 55 degrees…3/16th oz.
2. If water temperatures were between 55 and 75 degrees…1/4 oz.
3. If water temperatures are over 75 degrees…5/16th.
This scenario is based on a light breeze. If the wind rises to over 15 mph, my sinker size will go up 1/16th to 1/8th of an ounce to counter this wind. This will keep the fall rate the same given the wind drag.
It is also important to remember not to get to hung up on efficiency to the extent you go with a heavier weight just because it is easier to penetrate the cover. In your mind, efficiency needs to be equal to whatever weight is the best strike generator.
This is a considerably basic breakdown of flipping weights. In later columns, we will go into finer details on the topic, but I just wanted to share this starter tidbit with everyone to help you understand the importance of weights in your flipping arsenal.
In closing, just remember to experiment with your weights if you feel you are in good water and are not getting the flipping bites you should.
Bass do not read books and while there are guidelines to start with, many times modifying the recommended approaches to any technique will add up to more bass at the end of the day.
The Reality of Confidence in Fishing- Blaukat Blog
One of the mysteries of tournament bass fishing is the phenomena of streaks and slumps among professional anglers.
The energy behind streaks and slumps are the same in the fact that success breeds success and failure many times perpetuates that failure.
When you are fishing well, you tend to make all the right decisions. You are in the right place at the right time almost every day. Fish come unhooked after they are in the boat instead of along side the boat. You do not second guess your decisions on the water.
The same is true when anglers are in slumps. Fish jump off. You miss the key bite windows in your prime areas. Strong practices are washed away by a combination of controlled and uncontrolled variables.
If you fish long enough, you will experience both above scenarios. There has never been an angler alive that has not. It is the reality of the sport.
Through this all, anglers must learn to strengthen their confidence. And there are some concrete rules to remember that will help you do this.
Here are some key points to remember and consider…
1. Confidence cannot be faked. Many times, younger anglers who have experienced early successes build a confidence that is temporary because it has not been tested by time. Eventually all streaks and fake confidence fall away with the reality of failure that all anglers must deal with. Developing a humbleness towards success early on will serve any angler well.
2. Experience will strengthen your confidence. Having a background knowledge of fish behavior and movements will allow you to not get frustrated by slow days. Confidence will instill a peace within you that says it is just a matter of time before you figure things out.
3. Developing trusted relationships with other good anglers is a confidence booster. Work to develop working relationships with anglers who are positive and focus on solutions instead of problems.
4. Perfect your equipment. Make sure your tackle and boat are well-organized, clean and working properly. Taking care of these controlled variables will help your confidence.
5. Stay in shape. Regardless of your own unique physical abilities or limitation, focus of being fit and healthy. This is a controlled variable that will help with your focus on the water, and therefore your confidence.
6. View what are negatives to some, as opportunities. Weather changes, water level and clarity changes and fishing pressure are all things anglers must deal with. Whatever comes your way, immediately look for a way to turn it into a positive.
7. Do your homework. Study and gather as much information on the body of water you will be fishing. The more information you can gather, the better. Then work to discern what will work for you, and what you need to discard.
And finally, as the namesake of this website says, Fish the Moment! Bass are constantly changing in their moods/ behavior and personality. More times than not, what worked yesterday will not work as well today or tomorrow. Developing the confidence to change or adapt to your approach take time, because so many anglers fish from a level of fear.
Learn to fish with a relaxed, almost a “I don’t care if I catch one or not” attitude. This relaxed state of mind will free your mind and intuition up to make good decisions and fish at the right pace.
By utilizing some of these tips I’ve learned over the past 40 years of bass fishing, I’m confident YOUR confidence will grow more each day you are on the water.
Best of luck!
Blaukat FTM blog/Summer Casting Angles
July is a transitional month for many largemouth bass in man-made reservoirs.
The month of June is considered the heart of the post-spawn, where bass go deep to recover from the spawning ritual. Sometimes, bass will move deeper in June than most any other month in a lake.
However, as water temperatures rise, bass will go against traditional thinking and many of them will begin to move shallow and set up around any shallow cover.
This is especially true if stained water is present.
One of the keys to successful summertime shallow bass fishing is understanding casting angles.
Some of the best shallow water cover comes in the form of isolated wood. Stumps, laydowns, dock pilings and isolated brush.
When you have a combination of water visibilities under 15 inches and isolated cover, this will be a bass magnet. The hard part at times, is triggering these shallow, warm water bass to bite.
There are two main elements to consider under these conditions.
First is approaching the cover correctly with your boat. Since the cover is isolated, you only get once chance to make the key cast. Positioning your boat quietly and at the correct distance from the cover is of the utmost importance.
The most important part of this is making sure you do not come into a piece of cover too hot, where you get your boat too close to the cover. Taking the current, wind and boat speed into consideration is a skill mastered with lots of practice.
As well, you need to make sure your boat is not too far from the cover to make an accurate presentation. Depending on the technique, this can vary in distance.
Secondly, is casting angles. Depending on how the cover is positioned, and how far it is off the bank, the no. 1 key to triggering strikes from shallow cover is coming past the target at just the right angle and speed.
Most of the time, unless there is a strong current, there is no way to tell this. Therefore, anglers need to make repeated casts from different angles. For example, if you have an isolated log in 2 feet of water on a flat, about 30 years offshore.
Position your boat where you can come across the entire length of both sides of the log. Make at least 5 casts down each side. Then, move to the opposite end of the log and make the same repeated 5 casts. If a bass has still not bit, try casting across the log from both angles.
It is not uncommon to have to make over 30 casts, with different baits to the same piece of shallow cover during the summer to trigger a strike.
Once you have located an area of the lake where you begin to get a few bites off of the shallow cover, it makes it much easier to slow down and make multiple casts to other pieces of cover in the area.
Trigger mechanisms from bass will vary. That is why it is good to throw a moving bait first, backed up by a slow-moving bait. This covers the full range of a bass’ personality and mood at the time.
Fishing shallow water, isolated targets in summer is an artform. It requires a combination of stealth, awareness, casting accuracy, and determination.
But the reward comes from a level of quality fishing that can equal any deep-water patterns that may still exist on other parts of the lake.
Best of luck out there!
Flipping Jigs VS. Soft Plastics- Blauket Blog
Back in the early 1980’s, I had a chance to go out with one of the best flippers of all time…a Ozarks-area angler named Terry Thomas.
Terry was/is a Ozarks legend when it comes to flipping and has won countless tournaments in the area over the past 40 years.
At the time, I had never flipped, and Terry took me out on Grand lake flipping willow trees.
At the end of the day, and nearly 30 pounds of bass later, I was made a lifelong convert of the technique.
One of the biggest questions I get on flipping, is when to use a jig over a soft plastic bait.
From my experience over the years, there is one basic reality to this question, and tons of variables.
The reality is, a jig will get you a larger size average, but not as many bites. The variables are the color, size and profile of both the jigs and the soft plastics.
For many anglers, the rise of high-tech, soft plastic technology has replaced jig fishing. Creature baits/tubes and various worm designs outpaced the simple jig.
But make no mistake about it…jigs still play a huge role in flipping. You just must know when to choose a jig over soft plastics.
Here are some basic guidelines to remember on jigs…
1. Jigs shine during situations where the bass a bit more aggressive.
2. Jigs will produce all year long.
3. Darker jigs work better in water visibilities of 18 inches or less, especially around thicker cover.
4. Natural colored jigs produce better in clearer water and sparser cover.
5. Heavier jigs produce better in warmer or clearer water.
6. Lighter jigs will catch more fish in dirtier water, regardless of water temperature.
7. Jig/trailer are greatly responsible for how successful your jig fishing will be on any day.
Here are some soft plastic guidelines…
1. Creature baits will outproduce other profiles in and around heavy cover.
2. Soft plastics will generate more strikes than jigs, depending on profiles.
3. Jigs and soft plastic colors have the same rule. Dark colors in dirty water/natural colors in clearer water.
4. Jigs and soft plastics weights have the same rule…Heavier weights in deeper/clear/thick cover, lighter weights in shallower/stained water/sparse cover.
5. Soft plastics will produce in more situations because the profile variable allow the angler to match the personality/mood and aggression level of the bass more than jigs.
In this discussion, we are talking strictly flipping and pitching. These rules are a bit different than casting jigs and soft plastics.
Pitching and flipping is a philosophy to a large degree.
Understanding the fish positioning in shallow cover and determining whether a jig or a soft plastic will generate a strike is almost like a science due to the countless number of variables around both lure categories.
Although this topic could be discussed in much more detail, for this blog sake here are a couple key points to remember that will help your success…
1. Start with a jig and follow up with a soft plastic. Many times, you can get a few bites on a jig, then it will die off, and you can come back through the same area with a soft plastic and get more bites.
2. Experiment with jig profiles/trailer and colors. Hitting on this right combination is mostly done through experimentation.
3. Line size will affect the fall rate and angle of both lure categories.
4. “Rough up” your soft plastics before using. This will break the salt up and give the bait better action and a more natural look.
5. Think in terms of actions when choosing soft plastics. Flappers/curly tails and legs vs. straight profiles. Only the bass’ personality will tell you which is correct
Give these simple tips a try the next time you are out, and please feel free to leave some comments if you would like us to expand in more detail on this topic.
Thanks for reading and best of luck out there!
Developing Confidence- Blaukat Blog
At the heart of it, the attraction to fishing is the magic and mystery it presents anglers.
It is a sport with a tremendous amount of controlled and uncontrolled variables that will determine the level of success you eventually experience.
Regardless of your skill level, one of the top elements to be a successful angler in my opinion is developing confidence on the water.
Confidence cannot be faked, and confidence not founded in the proper perspective is quickly undermined on the water.
So why is confidence so important?
In my experience, it lies in two principles…
1. Fishing with confidence increases your focus. When you are focused your awareness is at its highest levels. With awareness, comes the ability to pick up things on the water that other miss, and helps you put together pieces of the puzzle.
2. The “unexplained” factor. The best example I can give for this was in a story Rick Clunn related to me years ago. His brother, Randy Fite was a top tournament competitor years ago. Rick told me Randy had a problem thinking if he were having a good tournament, eventually he would run into a bad day. One tournament, Rick and Randy were fishing the same area, and Randy was leading the event going into the last day. On the final day, both got to their area, and Rick told me the the fish were biting like crazy…better than they had all week. He approached Randy mid-day to see how much weight he had, and to Rick’s amazement, Randy had zero fish in the boat. He zeroed for the day, and Rick caught a big bag right next to him. Rick’s only explanation was he felt the fish could actually pick up on the energy Randy was putting out that he was “expecting” a bad day…and it manifested. Over my course of 35 years fishing professionally, I can honestly say I have seen the same mystery unfold not only for myself, but for other competitors, in the fact they created their own viewpoint of reality on the water.
The key to developing real confidence comes through experiencing reproducible successful fishing trips and analyzing poor trips when you have them.
That is the foundation, but not the entire story.
You can have confidence that you understand a body of water, a technique, or what the fish are doing, but the extent of that confidence is either built up or tore down as the hours tick by on the water catching fish or not.
Nothing builds confidence like catching fish. It builds confidence in your lures/approach and strategy. Nothing erodes confidence like going hours or even days without catching fish.
In order to overcome a lack of confidence, you must play a mental game with yourself.
Here are a few that have been successful for me…
1. Visualize a bass being inches away from your lure every cast. Expect to get a bite every cast. This is mentally exhausting but will increase your awareness of everything around you. High awareness equals successful fishing.
2. Tell yourself the longer you go without a bite, the closer you are to getting a bite. Remind yourself the bass are always biting somewhere, and you will figure it out.
3. Make a change or move. If you ever feel you are just “casting”, and that you do not have a real chance of getting bit each cast, change areas or techniques. A simple change on the water can boost your confidence immediately.
4. Develop fishing friends you can trust to give you honest information. Sometimes getting a tip thrown your way can be a big confidence booster and help eliminate any negativity you may have developed after not catching fish.
5. Expect the unexpected. This goes back to the mystery of Clunn’s story. Each day expect a big fish or expect to find a good bite out of nowhere. Trust that this unexpected event will take place. Tell yourself you do not know when or how, but you know it is coming. This is one of the most powerful exercises in fishing.
And finally, just relax and enjoy your time on the water. Never fish uptight or tense. The more relaxed your attitude is, the better you can tap into the elements that creates success on the water.
Best of luck out there!
Summer Squarebills- Blaukat Blog
Summer Squarebill Fishing
Now that early summer is in full swing, fish personalities begin to change with the warming water temperatures.
In most lakes, both natural and man-made, there are two distinct populations of bass…those who live shallow all summer, and those who prefer offshore, deeper structures.
Bass anglers therefore have two options in summertime fishing. As far as shallow, warm water fishing goes, few things can top the effectiveness of the squarebill crankbait.
Squarebills have been around for nearly 50 years, since the invention of the famous Big 0 back in the early 1970’s.
Bait technology has grown with this lure category, and now squarebills come in a variety of profiles, colors and internal balancing mechanisms.
The effectiveness of a squarebill comes in its ability to be fishing around heavy, shallow cover and deflect off objects. This deflection, combined with speed, will trigger a reaction strike from even the most lethargic summer bass.
Here are a few key points to remember when fishing squarebills…
1. Retrieves are critical. In water temperatures over 75 degrees, a fast, stop and go retrieve is the best way to fish a squarebill crankbait.
2. Try and cast into cover or hit objects on each cast. Regardless if you are fishing wood, rock or stumps, deflecting off whatever you are fishing is the most important element in squarebill fishing. When you hit an object, always pause for a second then begin your retrieve. This hesitation usually generates the strikes.
3. Casting angles are also critical. When fishing isolated cover, make sure to hit the target from as many angles as possible. Most of the time, sluggish bass in low oxygen, shallow areas need the bait to come by at just the right position to generate the strike.
4. Multiple casts are also important. Make sure to cast up to 20 times to an object if it looks promising. Many times, during the summer, these repeated casts are the only way to get a fish to bite.
5. Use heavy line. Heavy line…15-25lb. test not only will keep the bait shallower easier; it makes the bait react easier during a stop and go retrieve. As well, the heavy line makes controlling a bass easier during the fight.
6. Look for stained water. Squarebill fishing is at its best in water visibilities of 6-18 inches.
7. Colors are also key. Usually, a variation of a shad, a bluegill or a perch color are best. Let the sunlight, wind and water visibility determine your color selection. Stay with the brighter colors in the more stained water, and more natural tones in the cleaner water or on calm, sunny days.
So, if you are one of those anglers who prefer shallow power fishing all year long, rest easy and know there are plenty of opportunities to continue fishing like this all summer long.
Spend some time learning and understanding the controlled variables in squarebill fishing, and it will add up to some rewarding summertime action this year!
Squarebill Crankbait Link: Fish the Moment
Author: Randy Blaukat
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“Squarebills have been around for nearly 50 years, since the invention of the famous Big 0 back in the early 1970’s.”
Best Baits for Spring Bass Fishing - Blaukat Blog
Techniques are key this time of year, because pinpointing the bass is relatively easy…they move to the back 1/3 of the coves and creeks in nearly every man-made lake in the country. Catching these bass requires a specific approach to maximize efficiency and productivity. Here are the key baits one should consider throwing right now…
For many anglers, mid-April through early May is their favorite time of the year to fish.
Throughout many parts of the country, this time of year marks the period when bass are the shallowest they will be all year long.
Bass will not just move shallow this time of year to spawn. They begin this shallow transition as the water get into the mid-50’s and will stay shallow until several weeks after the actual spawning ritual.
When we are talking shallow, we are talking super shallow…3 feet or less, even in clear water.
Techniques are key this time of year, because pinpointing the bass is relatively easy…they move to the back 1/3 of the coves and creeks in nearly every man-made lake in the country.
Catching these bass requires a specific approach to maximize efficiency and productivity.
Here are the key baits one should consider throwing right now…
1. Wacky rigs:
Wacky rigging has been around for years and are one of the simplest techniques in bass fishing. A straight-tail worm or Senko-style bait is hooked through the middle of the bait and allowed to slowly free fall. Here are a couple wacky rig tips…
O-rings will save on baits, but they can impede hooking efficiency and creates a visual negative to the fish. Try hooking the bait in the middle with the hook only. This will give a more natural presentation and better hook-ups.
Experiment with sizes and profiles. Sometimes a wacky rig worm like a Zoom trick worm will work great, while other times they want a fatter, Senko-type bait. Experiment to find out.
Long casts are key, especially in clear water. Shallow bass are spooky and long casts will increase the amount of strikes you get.
Here are some links to my recommended equipment:
O-Wacky Tool
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/O-Wacky_Tool/descpage-OWACKYTOOL.html?from=FTM
Yamamoto 4" Slim Yamasenko 10pk
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Yamamoto_4_Slim_Yamasenko_10pk/descpage-YMSS4.html?from=FTM
Gamakatsu G-Finesse Series Wacky Jig Head 3pk
2. Ned Rigs:
Ned Rigs are deadly in the spring and are another simple lure design. Remember this when fishing them…
Use no more than 6lb. test and the lightest head you can get away with. The slow fall is key in shallow water, and bass prefer a slowly falling bait in and around the spawn.
Experiment with color. While green pumpkin and watermelon get used most of the time, it benefits the angler to use alternatives to keep a different look.
Do not set the hook. When you get a strike, just start reeling fast. The exposed hook on a Ned rig will penetrate easily by reeling fast.
Here are some links to my recommended equipment:
Z-Man Pro Shroomz Ned Rig Jigheads 4pk
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Z-Man_Pro_Shroomz_Ned_Rig_Jigheads_4pk/descpage-ZPSH.html?from=FTM
Reins RND Fat Ned Worm 10pk
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Reins_RND_Fat_Ned_Worm_10pk/descpage-RRND.html?from=FTM
3. Floating worms:
Floating worms are deadly on April/May bass. They have been staple fish-catchers for decades and now is the prime time to use them. Here are some keys with them…
Figure out the color. Pinks and other bright colors are associated with this bait, but many times, more subdued colors like green/black and natural color will get more bites.
Use a braid to flouro setup with a barrel swivel. This will allow long casts and keep the bait from twisting the line.
Keep the hook small. Floating worms are notorious fish losers. Most of this is due to the angler using too large of a hook. A 2/0 hook is perfect in a floating worm like the Zoom trick worm.
It is called a floating worm, but do not fish it on the surface. Most of the bites you get on this technique will come when the bait is down deep enough to barely be in view.
Here are some links to my recommended equipment:
Zoom Trick Worm
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Zoom_Trick_Worm/descpage-ZTW.html?from=FTM
Gamakatsu Offset Round Bend Worm Hooks Black 2/0
4. Shaky head
The shaky head is probably the top spring bass producer of all time. Not only can you cover a lot of shallow water with this bait, you can skip it under docks and cover, making it tremendously efficient. Here are some tips with it:
Figure out the right head weight. If the fish are in less than 5 feet of water, the slow fall of a 1/16th oz. head will get a lot of strikes. As the water get deeper or windier, upgrade your head size.
Size is key. Most spring shaky heads are 4-7-inch models. A good rule of thumb is to remember if you are fishing a lake with all 3 species of bass, go smaller. If your lake is largemouth only, stay with the 7-inch size.
Keep the bait straight. Take the time to slowly thread you worm on the jighead to where it hangs perfectly straight. This will give the bait a more natural presentation and add up to more strikes.
Here are some links to my recommended equipment:
Zoom Trick Worm
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Zoom_Trick_Worm/descpage-ZTW.html?from=FTM
Zoom Finesse Worm 20pk
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Zoom_Finesse_Worm_20pk/descpage-ZFW.html?from=FTM
Bagley Shakey Heads
https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Bagley_Shakey_Heads/descpage-BAGSH.html?from=FTM
And finally, remember that super shallow spring fishing is about stealth. Quality sized bass do not like to be in shallow water unless there is heavy cover/muddy water present.
Try not to prop-wash too much with your trolling motor and allow your boat to drift with the breeze in shallow water as much as possible. As well, as we mentioned earlier, long casts and soft entries are crucial.
All these elements…lure selection/presentation/stealth/long casts, etc.., will add up to more and bigger bass.
Best of luck!
Author: Randy Blaukat
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Check out the new Map Breakdowns Randy made this week for some of the most popular lakes in the country!
5 Simple Steps to Become an Offshore Bass Fisherman | Learning Plan
By following the 5 step learning plan below, I GUARANTEE you will become a better offshore bass fisherman and put more bass in the boat this year.
Author: Jonny Schultz (Fish the Moment)
Offshore fishing is one of the most appealing and challenge techniques for targeting bass. It can take months to gain confidence fishing in the middle of the lake and years to master. As a self-taught offshore bass fisherman, I know how difficult it can be to learn how to fish offshore and build confidence in an area, bait, or technique when you’ve never done it before.
This is one of the main reasons I started Fish the Moment. I want to flatten the learning curve on difficult bass fishing techniques like offshore fishing. Since starting my YouTube channel in 2016, I’ve made dozens of videos about offshore bass fishing. While they are all informative by themselves, they are even more effective when watched in a specific order. Therefore, I have created a learning plan that links the videos together in cohesive fashion.
By following the 5 step learning plan below, I GUARANTEE you will become a better offshore bass fisherman and put more bass in the boat this year.
Learn the basics of bass behavior as it relates to offshore bass fishing
I’ve made several videos on my YouTube Channel about when, where, and why bass position offshore. Here are 4 videos you need to watch before you start fishing offshore that will save you months of failure and frustration:
2. Learn how to read contour/topographical maps
Contour line maps are the key to understanding what’s going under the water in the middle of the lake. Without contour line maps, finding bass offshore is a very time consuming process. Here are some videos on how to interpret a contour line map:
There are several types of contour line mapping softwares on the market, as well as free web apps where you can view the map of your lake for free! Here are some links to those pages:
If you can’t find a contour line map for your lake, you can also use Google Earth Pro to find historical images of your lake when it’s drawn down to give you a better understanding of what’s going on under the water. Here’s a link to a video that explains how to download and use Google Earth Pro:
3. Learn how to read your fish finder
This is the most important step to becoming a good offshore bass fisherman. If you don’t understand how to read a fish finder, you’re not going to be an efficient and effective offshore fisherman. Here’s a link to a playlist with several videos that explain the basics off interpreting a fish finder, as well as more advanced techniques.
Once you understand how to read and interpret your fish finder, watch this video to understand how to apply what you’ve learned on the lake:
4. Learn what baits to throw offshore based on what you see on your fish finder
Once you understand the basics of offshore fishing, you will want to start experimenting with different offshore fishing lures. Here’s a video that breaks down which fishing lures to use based on what you see on your fish finder:
You can also download my FREE guide to offshore bass fishing lures with all of the baits I use, along with brand and color recommendations.
5. Take your offshore fishing to the next level
If you’ve made it this far and are ready to take your offshore fishing to the next level, I highly recommend checking out my Offshore Fishing Playbook. It will give you a framework for how to consistently find and catch offshore bass by helping you establish a structured approach to offshore fishing. You will learn how to adapt to different weather conditions, times of day, and lake conditions and how to maximize your fishing time on the water.
If you’re still struggling to find offshore bass after following steps 1 - 5, I would recommend booking a 1-on-1 virtual fishing lesson with me. During the lesson, we would meet over Google Hangout and I will break down your lake with you live. I will also come prepared with fishing strategies for your area/type of lake, bait recommendations, and frameworks for how to be more efficient on the water.
I hope this article helped speed up your understanding of offshore bass fishing and saves you from making a lot of the mistakes I did when I first started fishing offshore.
Best of the luck on the water,
Jonny